Lip Care & Colour Cosmetics
Home Lip Care Ingredients
A lipstick is five systems stacked on top of each other: a wax skeleton, a base oil that carries the pigment, high-gloss esters, a dispersion package that stops colour from sweating out, and a film former that keeps it off the cup. We supply all five from one warehouse - which means one shipment, one set of documents and one supplier to chase before your launch date.
The five modules of a lip formula
| Module | Typical % | What it does | Our materials |
|---|---|---|---|
| Wax skeleton | 15–30% | Hardness, mould release, structure | Beeswax, PEG-8 Beeswax, White Petrolatum, Paraffin |
| Base oils | 30–50% | Pigment dispersion, glide, moisture | Castor Oil, White Mineral Oil, GTCC, Triethylhexanoin |
| Emollient esters | 15–35% | Gloss, spread, anti-syneresis | Di-PE esters, trimellitates, PE tetraisostearate |
| Dispersion & emulsification | 2–10% | Even colour, no sweating, stability | Polyglyceryl esters, PEG-30 Dipolyhydroxystearate, Polyhydroxystearic Acid |
| Functional additives | 0.5–10% | Film forming, SPF, antioxidant | Acrylates copolymer, UV filters, Vitamin E |
Four reference formulas (per 100 g)
Every line below is a material we supply, except the pigment - which you almost certainly buy from a colour house, and which we are happy to work around.
Formula 1 · Classic moisturising lipstick
parts by weight, total 100
| Ingredient | g | Role |
|---|---|---|
| Castor Oil | 42 | base oil, pigment vehicle |
| Beeswax | 10 | skeleton wax |
| Paraffin Wax | 6 | hardness |
| Stearyl Stearate | 8 | structure (10-20% typical) |
| Cetyl Palmitate | 4 | solid structure |
| Triisodecyl Trimellitate | 8 | gloss, anti-syneresis |
| Pentaerythrityl Tetraisostearate | 8 | colour, gloss |
| Dipentaerythrityl Hexacaprylate/Hexacaprate | 6 | cashmere feel |
| Pigment (buyer-supplied) | 7.5 | colour |
| Vitamin E + fragrance | 0.5 | antioxidant, scent |
Formula 2 · Repairing lip balm
parts by weight, total 100
| Ingredient | g | Role |
|---|---|---|
| White Petrolatum | 46.5 | occlusive base |
| White Mineral Oil | 20 | light emollient |
| Beeswax | 8 | skeleton |
| Paraffin Wax | 5 | hardness |
| Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (GTCC) | 10 | emollient carrier |
| Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2 | 10 | paste emollient, gloss |
| Vitamin E + fragrance | 0.5 | antioxidant, scent |
Formula 3 · Transfer-proof lip stain
parts by weight, total 100
| Ingredient | g | Role |
|---|---|---|
| Acrylates/Polytrimethylsiloxymethacrylate Copolymer (and) Isododecane | 25 | film, transfer resistance |
| Isostearyl Isostearate | 15 | colour, comfort |
| Triisodecyl Trimellitate | 8 | gloss, film |
| Polyglyceryl-2 Triisostearate | 5 | pigment dispersion, anti-sweat |
| Dicaprylyl Carbonate | 32 | light emollient |
| Pigment (buyer-supplied) | 14.5 | colour |
| Vitamin E + fragrance | 0.5 | antioxidant, scent |
Formula 4 · SPF lip balm
parts by weight, total 100
| Ingredient | g | Role |
|---|---|---|
| White Petrolatum | 40 | base |
| White Mineral Oil | 15 | base |
| Castor Oil | 10 | base |
| Beeswax | 10 | skeleton |
| Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (GTCC) | 10 | carrier |
| Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate (OMC) | 7.5 | UVB |
| Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane (Avobenzone) | 2.5 | UVA |
| Ethylhexyl Triazone (EHT) | 2 | high-efficiency UVB |
| Butyloctyl Salicylate | 2.5 | booster, skin feel |
| Vitamin E + fragrance | 0.5 | antioxidant, scent |
Formulas are starting points for bench work, not production-ready specifications. Sunscreen dosages must be checked against the limit of the destination market (EU Annex VI, US OTC monograph, China Cosmetics Safety Technical Specification).
The range, by function
CAS numbers follow our product cards. Where a card does not exist yet, the material is still available - ask us for a quotation.
Waxes & Structural Oils
Hardness, mould release and the skeleton that holds the colour.
| Material | CAS | Why it matters |
|---|---|---|
| Beeswax | 8012-89-3 | The default skeleton wax: body, slight tack, weak emulsifying power. |
| PEG-8 Beeswax | 8012-89-3 | Self-emulsifying wax for anhydrous gels and lip colours; 1-4%. |
| White Petrolatum (Cosmetic) | 8009-03-8 | Occlusive base for balms; also a binder for pressed colour. |
| White Petrolatum (Pharmaceutical) | 8009-03-8 | Same INCI, pharmacopoeia test package - specify per market. |
| White Mineral Oil 10# (Cosmetic) | 8012-95-1 | Light emollient and pigment wetting aid. |
| White Mineral Oil 22# (Cosmetic) | 8012-95-1 | Heavier grade for balm body and gloss. |
| White Mineral Oil 32# (Cosmetic) | 8012-95-1 | Highest viscosity we stock in cosmetic grade. |
| Paraffin Wax 60# (Semi-Refined) | 8002-74-2 | Hardness control in lip balm; 60# semi-refined slab. |
| Oxidized Wax Ester | 68441-17-8 | Hardness, gloss and thixotropy; emulsifies more easily than the unoxidized wax. |
Base Oils
The 30-50% that carries pigment and decides glide.
| Material | CAS | Why it matters |
|---|---|---|
| Castor Oil | 8001-79-4 | Classic lipstick base: pigment grinding vehicle, gloss, water resistance; 30-50% of the oil phase. |
| Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (GTCC) | 65381-09-1 | Light carrier that reduces greasiness; 1-15%. |
| Triethylhexanoin | 7360-38-5 | Very light emollient and pigment dispersion oil; 2-15%. |
High-Gloss Esters
Gloss, fullness and adhesion - the difference between drugstore and prestige.
| Material | CAS | Why it matters |
|---|---|---|
| Dipentaerythrityl Pentaisononanoate | 84418-63-3 | Film-forming; improves gloss, fullness, abrasion resistance and adhesion. |
| Dipentaerythrityl Hexacaprylate/Hexacaprate | 68130-24-5 | The 'cashmere' ester: gloss, fullness, adhesion, and an SPF boost. |
| Diisostearyl Malate | 67763-18-2 | Film former for wear and adhesion; a strong pigment dispersant. |
| Triisodecyl Trimellitate | 36631-30-8 | Gloss agent and dispersant; stops colour separation in the bullet. |
| Tridecyl Trimellitate | 94109-09-8 | Good solvent for lip pigments; lifts shine. |
| Pentaerythrityl Tetraisostearate | 62125-22-8 | Colour intensity, gloss and a comfortable, non-tacky cushion. |
| Pentaerythrityl Tetraethylhexanoate | 7299-99-2 | Matte-friendly emollient ester; waterproofing. |
Pigment Dispersants & Dispersing Esters
Even colour, no sweating, no hard pan.
| Material | CAS | Why it matters |
|---|---|---|
| Polyhydroxystearic Acid | 27924-99-8 | Pigment dispersant; improves grinding and can raise SPF. |
| Triisostearin | 26942-95-0 | Pigment wetting and brightening; broad compatibility. |
| Octyldodecyl Stearoyl Stearate | 90052-75-8 | Premium slip, full gloss, low transfer. |
| Isocetyl Stearoyl Stearate | 97338-28-8 | Spreadability and gloss for premium lip products. |
| Octyldodecyl Myristate | 22766-83-2 | Dispersant, film former and binder; improves smoothness. |
| Isostearyl Isostearate | 41669-30-1 | High colour saturation and wear in lipsticks and glosses. |
| Pentaerythrityl Tetracocoate | 92201-72-4 | Pigment dispersion paste base. |
Solid Esters / Structuring Agents
Bullet strength without wax brittleness.
| Material | CAS | Why it matters |
|---|---|---|
| Stearyl Stearate | 2778-96-3 | Key structure and body; 10-20% in lipstick. |
| Cetyl Palmitate | 540-10-3 | Core solid structure and application smoothness for sticks and pencils. |
| Myristyl Myristate | 3234-85-3 | Structure, gloss and slip in one ester. |
| Behenyl Behenate | 17671-27-1 | Long-chain structure and a luxurious, rich texture. |
| Tribehenin | 18641-57-1 | Wear booster, oil-phase thickener, emulsion stabiliser. |
| Trihydroxystearin | 139-44-6 | Gelling agent for lipstick and lip glaze; suspends pigment; 0.5-2%. |
| Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2 | 82249-33-0 | Paste emollient, powder binder, gloss improver. |
W/O Emulsifiers & Pigment Wetting
For solids, creams and the sweat-proof systems.
| Material | CAS | Why it matters |
|---|---|---|
| PEG-30 Dipolyhydroxystearate | 827596-80-5 | Ideal base for solid and high-pigment colour cosmetics. |
| PEG-30 Dipolyhydroxystearate (and) Sorbitan Sesquioleate | 827596-80-5; 8007-43-0 | Solid colour base with spread, colour and wear. |
| PEG-30 Dipolyhydroxystearate (and) Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate | 827596-80-5; 66082-42-6 | Pigment stability plus water and sweat resistance. |
| Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate | 66082-42-6 | Gloss and water resistance; disperses pigment. |
| Polyglyceryl-2 Triisostearate | 120486-24-0 | Castor-oil-like function; good pigment dispersion; suppresses sweating; 1-5%. |
| Polyglyceryl-2 Isostearate | 73296-86-3 | W/O emulsifier and emollient for lipstick and gloss. |
| Polyglyceryl-6 Pentaoleate | 104934-17-0 | Pigment wetting and dispersion. |
| Polyglyceryl-10 Stearate | 79777-30-3 | Emulsifying, stabilising, dispersing. |
| Sorbitan Sesquioleate | 8007-43-0 | Dispersant and emollient; even colour, no tack. |
| Sorbitan Oleate (Span 80) | 1338-43-8 | Helps pigment disperse in the oil phase; stabilises emulsions. |
| Sorbeth-30 Tetraoleate | 63089-86-1 | High-efficiency W/O emulsifier for balms and glosses. |
Film Formers & Antioxidants
Transfer resistance, and keeping the oil fresh.
| Material | CAS | Why it matters |
|---|---|---|
| Acrylates/Polytrimethylsiloxymethacrylate Copolymer (and) Isododecane | 31807-55-3 | Film former for transfer-proof stains; controls oil and sebum; 25% in a stain. |
| Vitamin E (Tocopherol) | 10191-41-0 | Antioxidant protection against rancidity; 0.1-0.5%. |
UV Filters (SPF Lip Care)
Lip SPF is a regulated claim - dose to the market, not to the label.
| Material | CAS | Why it matters |
|---|---|---|
| Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate (OMC) | 83834-59-7 | Classic oil-soluble UVB filter. |
| Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane (Avobenzone) | 70356-09-1 | The UVA workhorse; needs a photostabiliser. |
| Homosalate | 118-56-9 | Oil-soluble UVB; used to build SPF in combination. |
| Ethylhexyl Triazone (EHT) | 88122-99-0 | Highly efficient UVB filter; max 5% in the EU. |
| Ethylhexyl Salicylate | 118-60-5 | Everyday oil-soluble UVB filter. |
| Butyloctyl Salicylate | 190085-41-7 | SPF booster and polar solvent; improves skin feel. |
| Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine (BEMT) | 187393-00-6 | Broad-spectrum, photostable UVA/UVB. |
| Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate (DHHB) | 302776-68-7 | Photostable UVA filter; alternative to the butamido triazone. |
| Diethylhexyl Butamido Triazone | 154702-15-5 | Photostable UVA filter; check the market limit before dosing. |
Additional Compatible Ingredients
The solvents, spreading esters and light stabilisers that finish the formula.
| Material | CAS | Why it matters |
|---|---|---|
| Cetearyl Ethylhexanoate | 90411-68-0 | Pigment dispersant and gloss agent. |
| Cetyl Ethylhexanoate | 59130-69-7 | Base oil for lipstick; water-repellent emollient. |
| C12-15 Alkyl Ethylhexanoate | 90411-66-8 | Pigment dispersant and base oil. |
| Cetearyl Isononanoate | 111937-03-2 | Moisture, gloss and slip in lip products. |
| Octyl Palmitate (2EHP) | 29806-73-3 | Solvent and spreading agent for lipstick and gloss. |
| Isopropyl Palmitate (IPP) | 142-91-6 | Emollient, penetration aid and solvent. |
| Isopropyl Myristate (IPM) | 110-27-0 | Emollient and dispersant for balms. |
| Isocetyl Myristate | 83708-66-1 | Liquid gloss and low-temperature stability. |
| Dicaprylyl Carbonate | 1680-31-5 | Spreadability and UV filter solvency. |
| Neopentyl Glycol Dicaprylate/Dicaprate | 70693-32-2 | Smooth, non-heavy cushion. |
| Trimethylolpropane Triisostearate | 68541-50-4 | Dispersant and film former. |
| Lauryl Stearate | 5303-25-3 | Hydrophobic film; improves slip. |
| PEG-8 Diisostearate | 68958-56-5 | Emollient for colour cosmetics; 1-10%. |
| Polyglyceryl-2 Laurate | 96499-68-2 | Mild emulsification and stability for balms. |
| Benzophenone-3 (Oxybenzone) | 131-57-7 | UV absorber; light protection for colour and fragrance. |
| Drometrizole (UV-P) | 2440-22-4 | Protects oils and fragrances from photodegradation. |
| Benzotriazolyl Dodecyl p-Cresol | 125304-04-3 | High-oil-phase light stabiliser for oils and pigments. |
Not in this catalogue: colour pigments (iron oxides, organic lakes, pearlescent), candelilla wax, carnauba wax, microcrystalline wax, ozokerite and lanolin. These are outside our current range, but we source them for regular customers - tell us the grade and we will quote.
Download the 2026 lip care catalogue
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